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In 2011, at the age of 44, I had my own mid-life-crisis career swerve, ditching journalism to start a new life as the owner of a waterfront hotel, restaurant and bar on the Scottish island of Islay.
Four months later, having already developed a slightly queasy sense that I might have made a mistake, confirmation that I wasn’t cut out for the hospitality trade duly arrived over breakfast in the hotel dining room, one November Sunday morning.
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Judging by the sunglasses she was wearing, the woman was also dealing with the consequences of an evening spent in the company of the local water of life.
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Had I really had a vocation for my new profession, I guess I’d have got up at that point, apologized to the customer and barged into the kitchen to deliver a sweary lecture on the advantages of a simmering over a rolling boil, in the manner of Gordon Ramsay.
I’d then have triumphantly emerged with “eggs to die for” and a grovelling display of obsequiousness.
In real life, I slouched lower in my chair and wished I wasn’t watching a surreal black comedy playing out in an uncomfortably familiar set.
One of the good/bad things about running a restaurant in Scotland is that hardly anyone ever complains, far less send food back.
Even if customers have thought something was completely underwhelming, they invariably respond to, “How was that?” with some variation of “Fine, thanks!”
I think this is explained by the fact that overseas visitors to our shores frequently start with low expectations while, among those from the rest of Britain, there’s a hard-wired politeness that short-circuits complaints.
I appreciate the desire not to offend, but recognize that it doesn’t do anything to help address the much-improved but still uneven standards that lead to the low expectations.
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Bad as this was, I felt confident that, armed with my growing experience of dealing with complaints, I’d be able to limit the damage when the woman came to check out.
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By the end I’d got myself so worked up with righteous indignation I had no alternative but to go for a dramatic concluding flourish.
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Business owners like to moan about inaccurate, even malicious, posts on review platforms, but my experience on that side of the fence was that reviewers, on the whole, try to give an honest account of their experience. In my case they probably had a tendency to be slightly too generous.
I was to have another two “moments of clarity” about my future as a hotelier in the months after Eggs-gate.
One was a bare knuckle fight with an outside generator at 4 a.m. on the night a hurricane struck the island. The other was the realization that a five-figure amount had evaporated from the business in the first six months of my dilettante stewardship.
“You were kind of asking for it,” the local police sergeant told me as he closed the unsolved case with an unforgiving review of my arrangements for shepherding cash on its journey from tills to safe to bank.
Looking back, nine years later, my naivety about almost every aspect of my ill-judged venture seems scarcely comprehensible now.
Looking back, nine years later, my naivety about almost every aspect of my ill-judged venture seems scarcely comprehensible now.
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Despite having a large amount of capital to invest and the security of a solid building, most banks weren’t interested in giving me a mortgage because their loan criteria for the sector explicitly requires applicants to have two years experience in the business.
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“I’ve run a newsroom covering half the planet! I’ve worked on really complex business stories. I’ve filed copy on the whistle at World Cup finals,” I’d fume to myself. “How hard can it be to change a beer barrel?”
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I told myself I’d considered all that, that journalism had inured me to long hours. But mostly I just avoided dwelling on the inconvenient truths of the trade: Instead, my mind’s eye was swamped with visions of making over the rooms in subtle shades, revamping the wine list and collecting langoustines from boats at dawn.
I did do some of those things and, for a while, my partner and I had the place jumping to the rhythm of two dinner sittings a night and the sound of a packed bar.
During that brief, exhilarating time it was easy to understand why having your own hotel appeals to so many journalists and others from creative professions.
For reporters who have lived itinerant lives constantly on deadline, the idea of settling down in one place and a less pressured, slower existence can become overwhelmingly alluring at a certain stage of life – particularly if you can imagine it as retaining some of the excitement and camaraderie that goes with the territory in journalism.
Fortunately, it turned out that putting my head in the sand, or under the duvet more precisely, wasn’t such a disastrous thing to do.
I remember a colleague who approved of my nutty plan telling me: “Yeah, I’ve always thought it’d be great to have a hotel by the sea. It’d be just like having a really nice house party.”
Plenty of interesting people came to my hotel. I liked meeting them and having a drink with them. The wine list did get better.
But the high summer honeymoon soon give way to an autumnal realization that the list of skills required to really make the business work was topped by secretarial and bookkeeping efficiency, home improvement handiness and a nose for where to source the cheapest toilet paper.
I wasn’t only not very good at any of those, I was practically allergic to chores I regarded as drudgery. Pretty soon I was so depressed about the enormity of the mistake I’d made I could barely bear to think about it, far less do anything to extract myself from my folly.
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Of that winter I remember almost nothing but the intense stress that twice sent me to doctors convinced the pounding in my chest and head would inevitably trigger a heart attack or a stroke.
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Fortunately, it turned out that putting my head in the sand, or under the duvet more precisely, wasn’t such a disastrous thing to do. The business I’d bought was essentially solid, the island’s tourist economy was strong and growing and my employees could be relied on to keep things ticking over on a breakeven, pay the mortgage basis.
Eventually a far more agile pair of hands arrived with a proposal to lease the business from me. That worked well enough that a few years later he was able to buy me out.
I’d managed to escape my own dream without any financial scars. “Well, at least you gave it a go,” my lawyer said. “You’d have regretted it if you hadn’t!”
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