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But is it really happy? And what does that mean for people living here? Its citizens have a variety of answers.

“The first thing (foreigners) talk about is the gross national happiness that we promote in Bhutan,” says KJ Temphel, founder of the conservation groupGreen Bhutan. “I think definitely living in Bhutan, for me personally, it’s quite peaceful and I’m very happy to be here.”

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“I must say that our people were actually happy, but now due to all those modern things and all those technologies coming in, somehow we are disconnected more and then we tend to be more depressed and more sad,” says Tandin Phubz, a creator of theHumans of Thimpu Facebook page, which features photos and profiles of everyday people in the capital in the style of Brandon Staunton’s famous Humans of New York project.

“The thing is that with all those gadgets and televisions (people) are somehow distracted from this. They tend to forget to do their morning and evening prayers. They’re on the phones watching TikToks, swiping up and down.”

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Entrepreneur Chokey Wangmo thinks it’s unlikely that corporations like McDonald’s and Starbucks would ever come to Bhutan – not because of local policies or customs, but because it wouldn’t be a profitable market for them.

“Our population is so (small), we wouldn’t be able to even get the money back for the franchise in the next 10 years,” says Wangmo, who runs several businesses in the southern Bhutanese town of Gelephu, including a coffee shop.

“Even if the whole population comes and takes one coffee every day, it will be really hard for them to pay back (the franchise fee).”

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It seems impossible to imagine Bhutan without the country’s fifth monarch. Portraits of the king and royal family – he and Queen Jetsun Pema have three young children – are in nearly every home and business in Bhutan, displayed the way other nations might hang up their national flags. Photos of the king are omnipresent in the country’s Buddhist temples, placed alongside pictures of lamas and laden with offerings of flowers, fruits and sweets.

“If you look at the houses of the private enterprise, the rich people in Bhutan, their houses are huge and quite decorative,” says Temphel. “But if you look at our royal family houses, they’re very small and they’re just a simple living and I think humble. And that’s how it matters. How they think about the country and the people, I think. It’s not thinking about themselves, but they’re thinking about the people in the country.”

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“There’s this Bhutanese quote where it says that, ‘You do whatever the neighbor does. If he or she goes and milks the cow, you go and milk the cow. If they go and work in the fields, you go and work in the fields.’” He compares this to the current trend of young people leaving to work and study abroad.

“Parents feel that, ‘Oh, that neighbor’s son or daughter is going to Australia, I have to send (mine) as well.’”

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“My worry is after seven years staying in other countries, you are more acquainted with the custom, the habits that you have in different countries, it would be very difficult for them to adjust immediately in Bhutan,” he says.

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Bhutan’s sole international aviation hub, Paro International (PBH), is one of the most beautiful airport descents in the world – but also one of the most logistically challenging. Located in a valley between two mountains, only smaller planes can come in and out safely. As a result, Paro only offers short hops to nearby Bangkok, Dhaka, Kathmandu and New Delhi.

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Foreigners who want to emigrate to Bhutan, though, don’t have it easy. Only Bhutanese citizens can buy land, and the only way to get Bhutanese citizenship – even if you’re married to someone from Bhutan – is by the personal approval of the king.

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For Wangmo, this sense of community spirit can sometimes be stifling. She says that she has a hard time telling people that she wants to eat dinner alone or that she doesn’t want guests over every day.

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“Nobody was socializing because of the Covid thing,” she says. “And then, once they started talking, they understood how important it was to talk about what they were feeling. And I think that is really when the mental health (conversation) really came into light. Mental health, I think, it’s a very, very personal struggle.”

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For Wangmo, who is training her restaurant and café staff to have a more tourist-centric mindset, change hasn’t come quickly enough.

“Just because we are wearing different clothes and having all these cars from other countries, it’s not going to get us there,” she says.

“(Change is) going to hit us hard. Some people are not happy, some people are scared, they don’t know what’s going to happen, if they can survive it. But when we are one faith, we have to do this, there’s nothing we can’t do.”

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