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Home to one of the world’s most famous nomadic cultures, Mongolia’s food reflects the nation’s resourcefulness and its deep-rooted relationship with nature.
It’s also a cuisine that is highly misunderstood, thanks to the many deceptive, so-called “Mongolian barbecue” restaurants in cities around the world.
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“Mongolian food is like a secret to the Western world,” says Ara. “It’s unique because many Mongolian foods rise from our nomadic culture.
“People just assume we’re crazy meat-eaters. It’s partly true – but also a little wrong. Mongols eat meat in winter because the winters are harsh. But when summertime comes, we eat dairy products like milk, and we have many wild greens. It’s balancing.”
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“Mongolian cuisine is diverse, encompassing not only meat but also a wide range of dairy products, berries, fruits and meat products from various regions,” she says.
“The taste of dairy products and meat can differ significantly between provinces, influenced by the type of grass that livestock graze on. For instance, meat from the Gobi region has a distinct taste with hints of wild garlic, while meat from the steppe areas is known for its rich wild onion flavor.”
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“If you take a grand tour around Mongolia, you’ll see the north uses more smoking techniques as it is better to keep food for longer in cold weather, but there are many more boiled dishes in the south,” says Batsuuri Gantulga, sales manager and itinerary designer forGoyo Travel, a tour operator based in Mongolia’s capital city, Ulaanbaatar.
“Much of our meat comes from the countryside. They’re grass-fed in the countryside and not from the factory. So different regions may use different meat available near them.”
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“It’s the (culinary) namecard of Mongolia,” says Ara, who even has a show on his YouTube channel called “Boodog Boys.”
First, the boodog master carefully removes the offal, meat and bones from the animal – usually a goat – while leaving the skin intact. Then, the meat is carefully cleaned and seasoned. Smooth river stones are collected and fired till they are blazing hot.
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“It’s historically a dish for warriors,” says Gantulga. “It makes more sense to cook using the skin of the animals than bringing pots and washing dishes on a campaign.”
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In summer, families set up fires in the countryside to barbecue on and these pots of khorkhog are often the star of the party.
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“With the hot stones and meat inside the sealed metal jug, you also need to know when to roll the pot around to relieve some of the pressure that’s built up during the cooking process, or it may explode,” says Gantulga.
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During Tsagaan Sar, everyone joins in to help knead the dough and roll dumpling wrappers. The meat – often lamb and beef – is minced, pounded and mixed with salt.
“Every family has its own recipe,” says Gantulga. “Some modern families add cabbages and carrots and some even add rice into their buuz.”
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Khuushuur, deep-fried dumplings, are often jam-packed with meat fillings and wrapped in a half-crescent shape.
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“People ask how did the Mongolian empire get so strong, traveling thousands of kilometers from Mongolia to Baghdad or Russia – the magic is the borts,” says Ara.
Borts are dried meat strips made in the traditional nomadic way. It’s believed that when Genghis Khan grew his empire, these Mongolian jerky strips helped feed and nourish the soldiers on their long expeditions.
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Borts are often broken into smaller pieces and added to water and salt to make soup. They’re included in many Mongolian dishes as well, from tsuivan (fried noodles) to banshtai tsai (tea dumplings).
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“Families often prepare their own versions of tsuivan but mixing it with milk tea is a delightful twist,” says Three Camels Lodge chef Nasanbat. She also adds salted ramsons, a plant that grows in Gobi, to enhance the flavors.
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It’s made by layering a bowl with chopped mutton, slices of sheep tail fat, salt and water. The bowl is then tightly sealed with a sheet – or sheets – of dough before it’s steamed or baked.
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“When you’re tired – say after a long trip – or stressed, you can eat this soup. Then, you’re relaxed,” says Gantulga.
Boortsog is considered Mongolia’s national cookie. Every family has a different recipe and will twist their boortsog into different shapes, but most are made of flour, water, yeast, butter, salt and some sugar.
Families usually make a fresh batch of boortsog every few months. Being deep-fried and dried, they’ve a versatile snack, suitable for journeys and for storing at home.
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First, unpasteurized milk is boiled. Then, the milk is repeatedly ladled into the center of the pot. Soon, a layer of foam will settle on top of the simmering liquid.
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