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It’s not the volume of water in Loch Ness that impresses, although that’s substantial. It is, after all, 23 miles long with steep walls that plunge into a 754-foot abyss deep enough to submerge Edinburgh Castle twice over.

It’s the unsettling darkness that stands out. Peat washes into the loch from surrounding rivers and streams, creating water as rich a brown as the tea that flows from pots in guesthouses in the nearby village of Drumnadrochit and the Highlands beyond. But it’s cold, bitterly cold, averaging around 40 F (4 or 5 C) year-round.

“You could be swimming next to a 400-foot submarine, it would be two feet in front of you, and you would not see it,” says Alan McKenna, social worker by day and, in his free time, founder of the Loch Ness Exploration research group. “It’s like a lost world down there.”

Unless you’ve been hiding under a rock in a water-filled valley formed by the shifting of tectonic plates half a billion years ago, you’ll be familiar with Loch Ness and its mysteries.

On November 12, it’ll be 90 years since factory worker Hugh Gray took thefirst photographof the Loch Ness “monster.”

Earlier that year, in April 1933, hotel manager Aldie McKay set off what would become an international frenzy through her reported shoreside sighting of an enormous, whale-like beast.

Countless “monster” sightings, hoaxes, searches and expeditions later, the enigma endures. McKay’s hotel in Drumnadrochit has been turned into the new $1.8 millionLoch Ness Centreand last August hundreds of Nessie fans gathered at the loch for the biggest monster hunt in 50 years. The findings, perhaps unsurprisingly, were inconclusive.

Even when visiting on a dreary Tuesday afternoon, the steel-gray sky reflecting off the loch’s restless undulations as anorak-clad day-trippers mill from shabby tearoom to souvenir store, Loch Ness is still a fair bit more than the tourist trap of expectation.

For many it’s an amusing, perhaps underwhelming, detour on a trip to the Isle of Skye or to Cairngorms National Park.

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But no legend will ever surpass the monster in the public imagination. Amateur naturalist Adrian Shine, founder of the Loch Ness Project research group, has, since 1973, dedicated a full half-century of his life to scientific exploration of the UK’s largest lake by volume.

In recent years he has stepped back from public engagements, but his elegantly white-maned, magnificently bearded figure, somewhere between Rasputin and Santa Claus, is the guide in video form through the center’s new multimedia exhibition.

He’s also been an inspiration and mentor to generations of Nessie enthusiasts. That includes people like McKenna, who makes the three-hour trip from Edinburgh each month to lead a volunteer hunt, and Steve Feltham, who’s been living in a caravan beside the loch since 1991.

“It’s a really bizarre extended family of Loch Ness enthusiasts,” says McKenna, his love for the project glowing in every word. Having Shine talk him through his Highlands fieldwork “was one of the most amazing experiences ever,” says McKenna. “Give me someone that is so passionate and so motivated to share that with everybody else. It’s phenomenal.”

For this is the biggest secret of all. Nessie hunters are not, contrary to popular assumption, fantasists battling against reason and common sense. What we discovered at Loch Ness is a community of naturalists united by a love of environmental science and a joy in life’s boundless mysteries – both terrestrial and existential.

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“If there is something in Loch Ness, it does not play by the rules,” says McKenna. “People are still seeing things that they can’t explain and I think that’s worth looking into. If it turns out these are all caused by natural phenomena, that’s fine. We’re still doing what we love.”

For the truth is that this is no ordinary lake. Despite its wintry temperatures, Loch Ness never freezes over due to the thermocline effect, which means cooler water sinks and is replaced by warmer water from below.

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It was Adrian Shine who burst his bubble and explained its earthly origin. But, says McKenna, “Loch Ness is so fascinating that it can cause these mirages. It’s a bit of a riddle, the whole place.”

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Core samples have been takenfrom the lake bed, with researchers getting a look at 12,000 years of mud, marked by coal burning from the industrial revolution and radiation from atomic testing in the Pacific.

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Echo sounding allows Matheson to track the depth of the loch on his boat outings, while hydrophones – underwater microphones - are McKenna’s best friends.

“If you don’t have a submarine, if you don’t have an underwater drone, you’re very, very limited,” he explains. “What really helps us is our hydrophone. We don’t have eyes down there, but we’ve certainly got ears.”

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Until then, the Loch Ness Exploration group meets monthly on the loch and is free and open to everyone — believers, sceptics and agnostics alike: details are on the publicFacebook page. The monster’s existence has never been proved, but it can’t be disproved either. And it’s that exquisite leap of faith that keeps believers going.

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