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Ohno is an ama diver, or a “sea woman” as they are known in Japan. For centuries, these traditional fisherwomen have lived off the riches of the waters around the Ise-Shima region, collecting seafood to sell at the market.
“We coexist with nature — not catching too much, and being conscious of protecting it. It’s a tradition that’s been passed down for thousands of years,” says Ohno, who moved here nine years ago from Tokyo to be an ama diver.
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Once a thriving industry, only about 2,000 ama divers remain in Japan now, according to estimates. Most of them are found in this idyllic region.
“The older divers still come here every day with a smile on their faces. I’ve learned that maybe that’s what gives them what we callikigai,or a reason to live,” says Ohno.
“Nowadays, very few of the amas’ daughters become divers themselves, so I will likely be the only one in my generation to take over. But it’s something I love.”
Here in Ise-Shima, you can meet some of these living legends. Across the region, a handful ofamagoya,or diver huts, dot remote beaches, with some allowing visitors to learn about the ama culture and taste their latest catch.
Found on the eastern tip of Mie prefecture, Ise-Shima is a region where ancient traditions, spirituality and the great outdoors collide. Where lush mountains make way for sprawling coastlines, protected inlets and remote islands. And where life moves at a slower pace — just how the locals like it.
Far from the buzz of major centers like Tokyo and Osaka, which are experiencing record visitor numbers, Ise-Shima is relatively untouched.
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Ise Jingu is the ancient epicenter of Shinto spirituality. Made up of 125 shrines, this sprawling complex is home to the Naiku and Geko shrines — known as the soul of Japan.
Each year, millions of visitors come to pray to the sun deity, Amaterasu Omikami, and to soak up the area’s natural beauty. Here, centuries-old Japanese cedars and cypress trees tower over the structures.
Visiting this serene place of worship, located in Ise City, is considered a once-in-a-lifetime experience for many in Japan.
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Here, visitors can experience a centuries-old Buddhist ritual calledtakigyo,or waterfall meditation, which involves sitting under the rushing flows to help cleanse the body and spirit.
“This area has been a place of nature worship for 1,300 years, where people purify themselves with the water,” says Shigeki Matsumoto, the Shirataki Daimyojin Shrine Association’s chairman, as he walks with us through the forest.
“The practice is said to wash away distractions and help you to find a positive manner in your life.”
But the ritual is not for the faint-hearted or cold adverse. The Shirataki Daimyojin Shrine Association leads travelers to experience the full power of the frigid waters cascading off the mountain year-round, even in the depths of winter.
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In the south of the national park, near Minamiise Town, lies a labyrinth of off-road trails just waiting to be explored by ATV.
Kosuke Nakanishi is a local Ise guide who has spent years taking guests off the beaten path on these buggies.
He takes us whizzing through the forest, across muddy tracks and up to a coastal lookout to fully soak in the beauty of the peninsula.
“I like to be surrounded by nature and be active, so this is the perfect job for me,” says the guide, who works with theTaso Shirahama Resort.
In ancient times the region was given the status ofmiketsukuni, meaning seafood from around the peninsula, such as spiny lobster and abalone, was sourced for Japan’s imperial family.
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Perched on the edge of Ise-Shima National Park, Ran is a restaurant in theOyado The Earth hotelserving guests a taste of the region as well as panoramic views of the Pacific.
Head chef Mototsugu Yamakawa specializes in Kaiseki, a meticulous style of dining that reflects the seasons of Japan.
For almost two decades he has prided himself on serving the freshest seafood from the peninsula, and sources produce from the ama divers when possible.
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“Japanese cuisine is a visual feast to be enjoyed with the eyes and a sense of the season. That’s the best part of our cuisine,” says the chef.
“We want to offer our customers delicious food from here. The freshness is different when cooking with seafood straight from the sea, so it gives it a totally different flavor. As long as I’m here, I want to carry on protecting the ama tradition and nature.”
Getting there: Visiting Ise-Shima requires a detour from the popular tourist routes. It’s a three-hour drive or train journey from Osaka’s Kansai International Airport.
But that’s what makes this place so special. Travelers are rewarded with a different side of Japan — one of adventure, ancient traditions and endless beauty.
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