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Only 20 of the unique 1.5 liter magnums, designed by Hungarian-based artist James Carcass, exist, 18 of which were released last year.
It was described as the “world’s most expensive wine” at the time of its launch, and while this statement is difficult to quantify, the Essencia 2008 magnum decanter was certainly the most expensive wine put up for sale in 2019.
Each of the decanters, which come in a lacquered black box with a switch that illuminates the bottle, is specially hand-blown, meaning no two are completely identical.
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Essencia is made inHungary’sTokaj wine region, located northeast of Budapest, which serves as a popular day trip for travelers visiting the capital city.
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Only the best aszú grapes are used for Essencia, which is made entirely from the juice of aszú berries (the other wines produced in the region have a base wine added to dilute their sweetness).
Visitors can arrange private tours of the winery, located around a two and a half hour drive from Budapest, in order to taste it.
“Essencia in itself is a miracle of nature,” says Orsi Szentkiralyi, a London-based Hungarian wine professional. “It’s very labor intensive and takes many years of careful work in the cellar.
“It only reaches a couple of degrees of alcohol but has lots and lots of natural sweetness. It’s so rich it’s normally served on a spoon instead of a glass.”
Essencia can only be produced in years with more or less perfect weather conditions for botrytis. And 2008 marked a particularly impressive year.
It takes about a kilogram of “incredibly ripe” aszú grapes to produce just a teaspoon, while around 20 kilograms of grapes shriveled to aszú berries are required for a 37.5 centiliter bottle of wine, which usually contains around 3% alcohol.
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“It’s always the winemaker’s decision when we bottle an Essencia,” explains Zoltan Kovacs, general manager at the Royal Tokaji Winery, located in the Tokaj district of Mád.
“It could be after three, or four years, or even 10. This [2008] Essencia was bottled after eight years of maturation. It’s a slightly unusual Essencia because it has a higher alcohol volume – around 4%.”
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“It really is one of a kind,” says Charlie Mount, managing director of Royal Tokaji. “I don’t know if we’ll ever be able to repeat it.”
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Once completed, the decanters were shipped to Portugal, where they were scanned and fitted with custom fitted corks, before being returned to Royal Tokaji, filled by hand and sealed.
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“This project is a symbol of one of Hungary’s greatest exports,” says Mount. “Hungarians are very proud of the diversity of the wine produced in the country.
“They make a great range of wine. But I think from an outsider’s perspective, Tokaji wine has this mystique. It’s even mentioned in the Hungarian national anthem.”
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“The long winemaking traditions, the beneficial climate and the diversity of wine styles make it a great wine producing country, but the majority of production is still consumed locally,” she says.
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“Even at the beginning of the 20th century, Tokaji was the most expensive wine in the world,” says Mount.
“Doctors used to prescribe it to their patients. If you were lucky enough to be able to afford it, you would be prescribed a teaspoon of Essencia in the morning and a teaspoon at night.”
“Pope Pius X kept it in his bedchamber and survived far longer than anyone expected because he was drinking Essencia.”
Perhaps the most famous reference is in Bram Stoker’s “Dracula,” in which the character Jonathan Harker is served a bottle of Tokaji on his first night at Count Dracula’s castle.
“The famous sweet wines of Tokaj have been enjoyed by the wealthy around the world for centuries,” says Szentkiralyi.
“Essencia is a very unique product that may have been the privilege of royalty, but everyone can seek out and enjoy a glass of Hungarian wine to see the quality for themselves.”
However, those willing and able to spend $40,000 for the privilege of owning this particular bottle will no doubt be few and far between.
Upscale London department store Fortnum & Mason recently purchased one of the decanters, while a collector in Beijing was the first individual buyer to snap one up.
“Of course, it’s expensive,” admits Mount. “But true wine collectors will spend multiples of that [$40,000] each year on building a perfect cellar.”
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“It pains me when something just sits on display,” he says. “Wine is made to be drunk. But equally, you’d want to save this one for a special occasion.”
Essencia 2008 is available by the spoon at various restaurants and hotels in the United States and Italy.
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