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“Just like I did in the US Army, where I volunteered to go to the war, wanting to do something different — I decided to come here to Korea to try something different,” says the Korean-American chef and judge on hit reality cooking show “Culinary Class Wars,” which has just been green-lit for a second season.

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Born in Seoul, South Korea’s capital, Sung and his family emigrated to San Diego, California when he was 13.

“We were just a family from Korea, seeking the American Dream,” he says. “As an immigrant family, we didn’t really know English.”

“I went to school, got into college, but decided to join the US Army because that’s the only way I thought I could travel,” says the chef.

Over four years of service, he trained in bases across the country, before being deployed to his country of birth, South Korea and — following 9/11 — to the Middle East.

“When I volunteered to go to Iraq during the war, people asked me, ‘Why did you do such a crazy thing?’” he recounts.

“I heard all these stories from my grandfather, my father, uncles and family friends about the Korean War and the Vietnam War. I volunteered to go to Iraq because… I thought I had this one chance to go to war and experience it.”

In late 2002, he was deployed to Baghdad for a year-long tour as a specialist with an artillery unit, “clearing out bombs and weapons” from Iraqi forces, including the bunker whereSaddam Hussein was found in 2003.

“Being a soldier for four years was one of the greatest times in my life, it’s one of the most exciting,” he says.

“There were people from Dakota, Idaho, Puerto Rico, Hawaii. I learned about their cultures and subcultures within the country.”

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But two weeks before he was set to begin his training, a chance encounter with a group of chefs outside the now-closed American branch of famed cooking school Le Cordon Bleu in California changed the course of his life again.

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“I didn’t ever look back, I never regretted it. And now I drive a Porsche, so it’s okay,” he says with a laugh.

“I think it was very spontaneous for me to choose this profession,” he admits. However, cooking was always in his blood.

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“I’ve met some of the greatest chefs in the US. They’ve mentored me and I think they’ve refined the roughness that I had from the military,” he says, crediting them with teaching him about the importance of finesse in their profession.

In 2015, Sung opened his own restaurant, Mosu San Francisco, combining American flavors with nods to his Korean heritage.

“It didn’t satisfy me that much. I was very, very happy for my team, for myself. But I knew there’s more to do,” he says.

“I wanted to come back to my country and utilize what I know and what I understand… use the indigenous ingredients, the Korean culture, the heritage.”

In 2017, chef Sung opened Mosu Seoul in the heart of one of the world’s fastest-growing fine dining scenes. Here, his plan was simple: to innovate.

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In 2022, Mosu Seoul was awarded three Michelin stars, and with it, the recognition of being the modern face of the South Korean capital’s transforming gastronomic scene.

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Chef Sung stars alongside veteran restaurateur Paik Jong-won as the much revered — and at times feared — judges on the show, demanding only the best from the incredible roster of chefs.

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“When I speak my mind, I speak accurately, logically and carefully, because they rely on what I say,” he says.

“I wasn’t acting, I was just being me. I gave a lot of respect to the contestants for their courage. I know how difficult it is to make good food. I wanted to support them, but not everyone’s going to win. So I set my standards.”

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“Korea’s fine dining and restaurant scene has grown so rapidly,” he says. “Seoul was once a layover city, now it is a destination.”

In early 2024, four Seoul restaurants — including Mosu — made it to the list ofAsia’s 50 Best Restaurants, including Mingles, Onjium and the fermentation specialist 7th Door.

Chef Sung was also honored at this year’s Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants ceremony — the first time it was held in Seoul — for pioneering a new wave of Korean fusion cuisine with the Chefs’ Choice Award.

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“Everyone around the world is fascinated by Korean culture, food, fine dining,” Sung says. “I think they’re really interested in what we’re doing, what the flavor profile is and how we represent this culture through food.”

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“I wanted to put my food on a plate that matches my food, not just something that’s really beautiful, expensive or shiny,” he says.

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“I’ve worked with a lot of chefs, but chef Sung is different, he is quite special,” says Sikijang owner and creative director Chung So-yeong.

One of Mosu Seoul’s signature serving dishes — a pristine white porcelain plate — is made by a Seoul-based artist renowned for his elaborate and twisted porcelain sculptures.

Ceramicist Yoon Sol had never made tableware until he was introduced to the chef in 2017. He was quickly inspired by chef Sung’s vision.

“There are people who share the same thoughts, feelings and emotions as yourself, and you get goosebumps when you meet them,” says Yoon from his studio in the outskirts of Seoul.

“Chef Sung gives life and character to each dish I make, which I find very respectable. I really think highly of his mindset and how he values beauty.”

“I have a really good relationship with the artist,” Sung says. “I try to kind of put their intention and their work into the food and then show it off as one.”

In early 2024, Mosu Seoul closed the doors on its original Itaewon location after seven years - relocating to a new home within the same district.

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Chef Sung says the new space will “retain the DNA” of the original Mosu Seoul. But he plans to “bring it up a notch,” adding new dishes and a new look to the décor, ensuring Mosu Seoul continues to evolve and grow, just like South Korea’s fine dining scene.

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