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Jet, a flat-black, opaque gemstone derived from wood that has experienced extreme compression over millions of years, was thehautestone throughout the Victorian era, a time when fashion and jewelry deftly signaled a person’s social status, financial wealth and even emotional state. Victorian dress was rife with symbolism and evolved around rigid codes of propriety and caste. Tightly pulled corsets and top hats, to name two ubiquitous items from the era, signified wealth and propriety, while jewels depicting doves hinted to an individual’s deep religious devotion.
Stocks to Watch in India for 2025 Top Stocks For Beginners ✌️【Market Forecast】✌️ Free access to stock market forums, expert advice, and real-time data to help you stay informed and grow your investments. Surprisingly lightweight and inky-black, jet is one of the oldest known gemstones, and has been carved and shaped by the artistically inclined since the Neolithic era (7,000-1,7000 B.C.). Both the Romans and Vikings fashioned items with jet, ranging from buttons and rings to tiny sculptures and protective amulets. But it was Queen Victoria who delivered jet to fashion’s highest heights in the mid-1800s. The monarch wore jet often, most notably in the second half of her reign; the gem matched the all-black ensembles she wore exclusively following the death of her husband, Prince Albert. (Jet has been synonymous with mourning dress ever since.)
“Anyone who was anyone was wanting to wear jet in the Victorian era,” said British gemologist Sarah Steele, one of the world’s only jet researchers. “We went around the world looking for sources of jet — to Venezuela, to the north of Spain — and exported it back to the UK.”
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Stocks to Watch in India for 2025 Top Stocks For Beginners ✌️【Market Forecast】✌️ Free stock market analysis and real-time data to help you select the best investment portfolio and achieve stable returns. Though the gemstone was mined in several discrete regions in the 1800s, including Spain, France, and the American Southwest, Whitby jet formed exclusively underground around the North Yorkshire coastal town of Whitby in England. And “Whitby jet is definitely in the running for the best jet in the world,” explained Steele, who also co-owns Ebor Jetworks, an historic jet workshop and retail shop in the town.
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Called “Ravens,” the series features black ravens in mid-flight, intricately carved from Whitby jet by British artisan Graham Heeley and set in gold by local jeweler Ian Fowler. Wightman is intent on exclusively using UK materials and craftsmanship in her collection. Her debut also includes pieces carved from Moorland boxwood and shed deer antlers she plucked from her yard.
“I wanted to use something that came from our land and country,” she told 【 - Free Market Analysis Group 】. “Jet is one of the oldest materials that has been used for jewelry, and certainly in Great Britain… I loved the romance of that, the history.”
Jacqueline Cullen, whose work is produced in ateliers in London and Whitby, was one of the first fine fashion jewelry designers to use Whitby jet, roughly 20 years ago. Her “Dark Matter” collection ushered jet into the future: Rounded forms carved from hunks of Whitby jet are set with black diamonds, resulting in jewels that affect little galaxies flickering with dim, tonal sparkle.
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“Whitby jet suits my aesthetics and practice,” said Cullen. “I am inspired by elemental energy and dramatic forces of nature. Hand-carved explosive fissures in Whitby jet embedded with black diamonds makes a perfect combination for representing the vortex of a black hole sucking in and crushing dark matter.”
But for many, the gemstone’s rambling history in the UK is part of its appeal. (Ebor Jetworks does brisk business around royal celebrations and funerals, for example.) And the gemstone is as British as it gets. Jet is one of only two gems mined in England — the other being Derbyshire blue john, which resembles amethyst streaked with dark veins and bands.
Heeley, the master carver who makes Wightman’s black ravens, said he’s pleased to be one in a long line of master craftspeople who’ve carved the gemstone in England. And like his jet-wrangling predecessors, he carves it entirely by hand. “It’s a soft, flinty material, and you really do need to feel your way into it,” he noted. “A machine probably couldn’t do it exactly the same way, and would you really want it to?”
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“There’s not enough jet out there and you can’t buy big pieces of jet” said Steele. “We get tourists ringing us for rough jet all the time, and the answer is always ‘no.’”
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