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I’m able to roam the island freely and defy the six-feet minimum social distance measures the world’s been accustomed to since the beginning of 2020.
For just a few days in this Indian Ocean paradise, things feel back to normal in a wildly abnormal year – but this shift takes some getting used to.
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Like all countries heavily reliant on tourism, it’s been hit hard by the crisis. According to the World Bank, tourism directly and indirectly accounts for two-thirds of the country’s GDP.
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In a statement issued in May, Ali Waheed, the country’s minister for tourism, described the impact of the coronavirus pandemic as “more devastating than the 2004 tsunami and the 2008 global financial crisis.”
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During boarding, Qatar Airways passengers must wear their mask and a face shield, which they provide complimentary at the gate.
I did the New York to Doha leg in economy class on a half-empty plane, having a whole row to myself. I then flew in the Qsuites, Qatar Airways’ business -class offering, for the final leg to Malé.
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I finally arrived at Maldives’ Velana International Airport in the morning, with the descent above blue blobs of pristine atolls as thrilling as ever from my window seat.
Deplaning from business class before most others became a tremendous blessing, as the border control checks were stringent and time-intensive. I approached the border control booth with the handful of documentation required for entry: a print-out of my negative Covid test result, copies of my two resort reservations (Soneva Fushi and Soneva Jani) and a QR code from my completed Traveler Health Declaration form.
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I hopped into a buggy with my butler who brings me straight to my massive beachfront villa… the only slice of island life I’d see for the next 20 hours.
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Covid-positive results require a 14-day quarantine in one’s villa (with accommodation free of charge). Though I was relieved to have negative results, I couldn’t help but think that there are much worse places on Earth to recuperate for two weeks if the results were different.
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I’d fully get used to this newfound “freedom” by the time I arrived at my second resort, Soneva Jani, known for their sandcastle-style overwater villas with retractable roofs. Having already been tested at Soneva Fushi, there was no need to take another Covid test.
During my twin-resort trip – popular for Soneva guests even before the Covid era – the seaplane transfer between the two was the only time I had to wear masks before the end of my trip.
I believe the Maldives has done a commendable job of preventing the spread of the virus and installing protocols to keep locals and travelers safe at all times; select resorts with in-villa testing like Soneva Fushi and Soneva Jani provide even more peace of mind.
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Depending on the resort, the Maldives offers a golden opportunity to feel ordinary again – for some, it’s worth traveling halfway around the world to experience such a long-lost sensation.
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