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Completed in 1912 under the Japanese occupation, the Alishan Forest Railway was used to transport now-endangered Taiwan cypress trees from Alishan. After logging was banned, it lived on as the only passenger train to ride up the mountains.

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It’s the highest narrow-gauge mountain railway in Asia – higher than the famed Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, which ascends from 100 meters to 2,200 meters.

Best of all, many aspects of Alishan rail network remain as they were 100 years ago. The railroad ties are still made of solid wood and drivers have to get off the train and manually switch the track direction.

“It feels more human, unlike the cold and automated modern machines,” says Liao Yuan-chiao, an Alishan train captain.

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“I like railways because I love the low noise from a diesel train motor – you can hear the changes in the sounds when the machine changes its speed. It sounds alive.

“Luckily, Alishan Forest Railway hasn’t been replaced by electric trains,” Liao adds. “It’s totally my paradise.”

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Its services have been disrupted by natural disasters and derailments multiple times. After taking over, AFRCH closed the railway for three months for maintenance and check-ups before reopening in June 2018.

“Alishan Forest Railway is a priceless cultural heritage [for Taiwan].” says Tang Yu-chin, a spokesperson of AFRCH. “Therefore, preserving Alishan Forest Railway isn’t just for tourism purposes but for promoting this culture.”

Instead of just highlighting Alishan attractions, it focuses on the history and culture of the Alishan Forest Railway. Travelers spend time at various stops including the wooden Beimen and Jhuchi stations, which were rebuilt to match their original designs.

“I used this before when I was a lumberjack,” says Hsu Chao-huo, an 87-year-old volunteer guide at the small museum at Shizilu Station, pointing at the rusty saw on the shelf.

“I’ve been living on Alishan all my life. The mountain is better for my health – the land below is too hot.”

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“I grew up next to the railway,” he says. “My grandfather and my father both worked for the Alishan Forest Railway.

“I thought it’d always be there – until there were voices who wanted it demolished completely. Some thought we shouldn’t bother maintaining it as we could just use the highway nowadays.

“Then I started photographing the Alishan Forest Railway so I could introduce it to those who didn’t know the line. It’s filled with memories of my growing-up – and of all the residents along the tracks.

“Those voices are still there – so we’re trying our best to introduce the Alishan Forest Railway so more travelers will know about it, too,” chimes in Wu Han-en, a part-time tourism lecturer in Tainan who also works as the stationmaster of Fenqihu (one of the railway’s bigger stops).

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Only one train departs from Chiayi, at 9 a.m on weekdays. Two more trains (at 8:30 a.m. and 9:30 a.m.) are added at weekends. (Find the schedule onthis website).

From Alishan Station, there are three shorter lines – Shenmu Line, Zhaoping Line and Chushan Line – that ferry passengers between the main Alishan Stations to the attractions around the Alishan Scenic Area.

Visitors should bear in mind, the best views are on the right-hand side when traveling uphill and on the left when running downhill.

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For instance, it features a loop line, spiral route track design, S-type lines and 180-degree U-turn lines as well as Z-type lines – it’s rare to experience all these formations in one railway system.

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Chushan Line is the most popular track. It runs one return trip daily in early morning, taking travelers to see the sunrise and sea of clouds on Chushan. Xiaoliyuanshan Lookout, a 15-minute hike from Chushan, offers a better view.

Fenqihu Station, dubbed the Bento Kingdom for its crucial position as a main rest stop for workers in the past, is famous for its 100-year-old food street and a former logging track-turned-bamboo forest hiking trail.

During cherry blossom season from March to May, the Alishan Forest Railway runs a special vintage steam train once a week. Fall is a popular time to visit, too.

Located 2,200 meters above sea level,the 103-year-old Alishan Houseis the area’s most luxurious stay.

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Otherwise, there are plenty of teahouses at Fenqihu Station. Ding-Zhan Kitchen Coffee near Fenqihu Station serves artisanal coffees from beans grown and roasted by the owner.

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Fares are calculated according to distance (from $0.3/kilometer). A trip from Chiayi to Fenqihu cost around $12. Check thefare table on its website.

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