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I found these argumentsfascinating, especially because my love of Guinness beer is based on its bitter-sweet malted aromatics and their potential as a cooking ingredient.

I bakestout and apple wheaten breadregularly with an overdose of Nigerian Foreign Extra Import, switching buttermilk for stout.

I slow-cook stewing beef in three-quarters of a can with carrots, leeks, dried Cameroonian peppers and honey.

But I can’t drink it. I’m a philistine whose appreciation of the beverage really starts and ends with pleasurable inhalation of the fragrance of cooking Guinness. I suppose that is also a kind of sensory imbibing that can leave you “happy.” There is something about Guinness’s distinct aromatics that hits the spot.

How do you drink your stout? It’s an easy question in Nigeria. The intensely dark, bitter, creamy, deliciously frothy-headed elixir with an intoxicating bouquet is democratically drunk all over the country by all.

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In other words, the Guinness brew pretended that it was one of us (Black, beautiful and strong). It attested to how we saw ourselves and plugged into our national identity and we forgot that it was imported.

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It’s an efficient identifier. If you say to the man behind the counter “Foreign… Extra… Import,” he will stake his life that you are Nigerian. Our brew is apparently “less” bitter, and roasted darker, than the original Irish Guinness Draught in a can or pub-poured pint glass.

Because it has been many years since I was back in Nigeria, I turned to Nigerian poet, writer, psychiatrist and friend Dami Ajayi for help with beer parlor nostalgia

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It was a purpose-built building situated in the old railway compound. The upper floor, called the social center, was forsaken and unhappy but there was a kitchen downstairs rented out to a catfish and pepper soup vendor with a gold tooth.

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Outside the perimeter of the building were stalls – Aunty Toyin selling peppered snails and yam, Shehu, the suya smoked meat man with his speciality “tozo suya” beef and someone else selling noodles and eggs.

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In summary, meat, stout and an essential playlist of classics like Chief Commander Ebenezer Obey’s“The Horse, the Man and his Son,”or“Ero Mi Ko Lonso,”Tunde Nightingale and his Highlife Boys’ “The Bird That Sings All the Night,” Ayinla Omowura’s “Awa Ki ise Olodi Won,” and Dr. Victor Olaiya’s languid crooning of“Baby Jowo.”

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Until its demolition years later, it never achieved its goal. The memory of the beer parlour remains indelible as the place nearby to unwind and drink your “Odeku.”

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It says something about the ubiquitousness of Guinness inNigeria that our words for the drink have transcended the division of 500 languages and become big vs small, Odeku vs Lanko. The size of the Guinness beer bottle you buy for a friend or new acquaintance points to how highly you esteem them. There is no middle ground where this is concerned.

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In 1992, Nigerian Breweries attempted to create a new brew to rivalGuinness and came up with Legend Extra Stout. It contains the eluded barley with sorghum and caramel, but more than 30 years later it has still failed to topple Guinness from its throne.

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Femi Oyebade speaks for many when he says there is no match for Nigerian Guinness in smoothness or cultured mouth-feel – not even close.

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I then put my meat back in with the vegetables and add about a handful of flour; three quarters (or more) of a can of Guinness Foreign Extra Import; salt; lots of ground-dried Cameroonian pepper and about one-and-a-half to two tablespoons of honey. A little bit of water also helps.

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