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But, like me, my fellow travelers didn’t make this 12-hour journey just for the breathtaking views of rolling rice terraces — we were there to meet Apo Whang-Od Oggay.
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For over nine decades, she’s been hand-tapping tattoos inspired by agriculture and the local landscape. She has inked tribal warriors with elaborate geometric patterns and women of the Butbut tribe with symbols of fertility.
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I was one of over a hundred people getting tattooed by her that day. Some were foreigners, while others were Filipinos from different provinces across the archipelago. Many were, like me, Filipinos by heritage who grew up overseas and were looking to experience our own culture first-hand, beyond the stories told by our parents.
I stared at her in awe. She was dressed in a loose, colorful tie-die shirt and bold patterned pants, her own tribal tattoos on full display. This was my first tattoo and I was nervous. But her wrinkled, bespectacled face softened as her red lips smiled at me kindly.
I handed her the tattooing instrument, which I had earlier purchased as a souvenir — a needle fashioned from a pomelo and attached to the top of a handcrafted bamboo stick. She dipped it into a mixture of coal and water. I quickly rubbed my forearm with an alcohol wipe and pointed to the place where I wanted my tattoo.
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Batok, or indigenous Filipino tattooing, has been around for more than a thousand years. The elaborate designs once adorned both men and women, signifying everything from valor to strength and protection.
But the traditional art form fell out of favor, partly due to its association with the outlawed practice of headhunting (historically, men would receive chest tattoos after returning with the head of a dead enemy).
Landlocked high in the mountains, the Kalinga region remained effectively independent during more than 300 years of Spanish colonial rule, its tattooed warriors fiercely fighting off outsiders.
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Being tattooed came to be viewed as a mark of shame whenever villagers went to nearby cities, as urban Filipinos often considered the practice “backwards.” In recent decades, tattoos’ popularity among criminal gangs has cast further stigma on the art.
“Growing up in the Philippines tattoos were definitely frowned upon, especially for religious families, because of the negative connotations and the criminal association,” said Kent Donguines, the Filipino-Canadian director of an upcomingdocumentaryabout Whang-Od, “Treasure of the Rice Terraces.”
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Over time, her tattoos have also become symbols of peace. According to Krutak, who has studied decades’ worth of Whang-Od’s work, she has even inked neighboring tribes like the Bontoc, who were traditionally enemies, traveling (most likely by foot along dirt paths, he said) to attend their tribal ceremonies.
Buscalan is still relatively untouched by modern conveniences. There’s no cellphone reception, though a handful of vendors instead sell Wi-Fi access to visitors (local tour guides use walkie-talkies to communicate). Most families still sustain themselves by growing rice.
But this rural area is — for better or worse — evolving as Whang-Od and her apprentices attract more and more tourists. During my visit, I passed a town hall meeting being conducted on a covered basketball court. A provincial representative told a crowd of elders that the village needed to track visitor numbers to determine how many new water tanks and garbage disposal areas should be built.
Krutak said a growing number of locals now make a living through tourism, though village leaders often tell him they should not forget that they are primarily an agricultural community.
“Their ancestors shed a lot of blood to protect the village at the top of the mountain, they put it there for a reason,” Krutak said.
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“(My friends who gave tattoos) have all passed away,” Whang-Od told 【 - Free Access to Investment Community 】 in an interview in 2017. “I’m the only one left alive that’s still giving tattoos. But I’m not afraid that the tradition will end because (I’m training) the next tattoo masters.”
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