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However, they can only operate at night and must completely dismantle or remove their stalls before morning commuters begin swarming the sidewalks. The only clue that a yatai might materialize later is a ground-level water spigot.

But at night, the city transforms. Carts and vans seem to appear by magic, serving everything from gyoza (in Fukuoka, these popular dumplings are served in mini, bite-size form) to ramen to meat skewers to a local chicken hotpot stew called oden, paired with ice-cold Asahi or Sapporo beers.

“Yatai is the best place to make friends,” says Nick Szasz, a Canadian-born longtime resident of Japan who runs the English-language websiteFukuoka Now. “Especially in the winter.”

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Had Fukuoka gone in another direction, yatai might have become a thing of the past. The loose, unaffiliated system of carts was unregulated and varied wildly in safety and quality.

Enter Sōichirō Takashima, who has been the mayor of Fukuoka since 2010. When elected, he was just 36, the youngest mayor in Fukuoka’s history and one of the youngest in all of Japan.

Japan has the “grayest” population in the world, with at least one in 10 residentsover the age of 80.

But Fukuoka, the largest city on the island of Kyushu, is bucking that trend. Takashima’s administration has wooed recent college graduates and young entrepreneurs from around the country with small-business loans, affordable rent and co-working spaces.

One of the big initiatives pushed by the mayor – who was reelected to a fourth term in 2022 – was an overhaul of the yatais.

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But rather than restrict the yatai community, the industry cleanup has led to a new, younger generation of yatai operators who are trying out new styles and flavors to keep locals coming back.

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But the element of surprise is one of the things that makes street food so much fun, and that goes double in Fukuoka.

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