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From a distance, Pamukkale looks every bit like a ski resort, with a cascade of brilliant white slopes and a scattering of tourists at the top, seemingly preparing to slalom down into the valley below.

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Because this unusual and beautiful wonder, located deep in the sunkissed hills of southwestern Turkey, isn’t snow at all. In fact the water it’s formed from sometimes spurts out of the ground at boiling point.

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But this place was a tourist sensation thousands of years before social media, as first Greeks, then Romans flocked here for the thermal waters and to pay tribute at what was revered as a gateway to Hell.

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Enter from the South Gate – tickets cost 30 euros (about $33) – and it’s easy to be initially underwhelmed. There’s not much to see right away apart from a few toppled ancient columns, which are a frequent sight around this part of Turkey.

In truth, the site of Hierapolis and Pamukkale is huge, so it takes a while to reach the good stuff (golf buggies can be rented for those really pressed for time or unable to walk the distances here). But it also means that the big reveal, when it comes, is even better.

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Over millennia, the calcite deposited by the thermal water sputtering out of the ground has reshaped this hillside, creating white terraces that give the area its name - Pamukkale means cotton castle in Turkish.

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“It is pretty, but there’s not as much water as I’d expected,” says Mary Huang, a tourist from Guangzhou in southern China, posing for a photograph on the edge of one of the pools. “The view is gorgeous though.”

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DJ Tiz, a South Korean music producer on a road trip across Turkey with his partner, singer Fre Naz, is among those slapping mud all over, under the watchful eye of an amicable dog. Having already sampled plenty of the country’s stunning landscapes, he declares: “I love Pamukkale the best.”

For a more complete spa experience, there’s the Antique Pool, about five minutes’ walk from the top of the terraces. Here, for a small extra fee, visitors can use changing rooms and bathe and swim in crystal clear thermal waters over the toppled ruins of an ancient temple to Apollo.

Better still, as you near the source of the water, in one corner of the pool, it becomes filled with tiny, fizzing bubbles – it’s like swimming in warm Champagne or soda. The water is said to offer relief to skin, cardiovascular and rheumatic complaints. Drinking from a water pump here is also said to work for digestive conditions.

You can spend hours wandering around the remains of Hierapolis – high spots include the wide 2nd century agora marketplace, the magnificent Roman theater and the tombs of the necropolis.

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Here, much to the amazement of onlookers, sacrificial animals such as bulls would drop dead after breathing in noxious carbon dioxide fumes swirling up from below. The priests, who led them in would emerge unscathed, having learned to hold their breath.

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Pammukale’sUNESCO-listingled to on-site hotels being demolished, new pools constructed, water redirected down manmade channels, improved site management and closure of the slopes to reverse degradation that had changed them from white to gray.

“If they cannot enjoy the water, then they are not staying long. Maybe one night or just visiting for an afternoon,” Durmuş says.

He worries that the diminished experience has meant people miss out on exploring the surrounding area, which has other geothermal attractions. Towns stretching out northwest from Pamukkale along a geological fault line tap into increasingly hotter supplies of steam and water surging up from underground.

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Further away, in Buharkent – its name meaning steam city - water at boiling point powers what was Turkey’s first geothermal power station.

In winter, it has been known to sometimes get chilly enough to snow in Pamukkale, but thanks to the primal forces that thrust up from its hellish subterranean portals and paint the hillsides white, it’s always a hot destination.

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