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It’s a scene repeated across France at this time of year as the country harvests the ingredients that make its wines famous among connoisseurs the world over. But Bolenor and his crew are not in the classic winemaking regions of Bordeaux, Burgundy, Languedoc or the Loire.
Clos Montmartre, located on the north side of Montmartre, the teeming artsy neighborhood crowned by the majestic Sacre Coeur cathedral, is a tiny but picturesque vineyard that’s home to about 2,000 grape-producing vines that grow seemingly oblivious to the fact they’re in the heart of the French capital.
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But the tradition of vine cultivation in Montmartre survived. Today, the Clos Montmartre is a small, picturesque parcel tucked away from the chaos of the city under the watchful eyes of the Museum of Montmartre. And each October, Parisian gardeners gather alongside urban wine enthusiasts to harvest these grapes right under the noses of city dwellers.
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“Montmartre was a very poor district until the 1950s and people have always built their own solidarity here,” explains Eric Lejoindre, mayor of the 18th. “And that’s why it’s so important for us even now to maintain those traditions and the spirit in which those traditions were created.”
“Working the vines in Paris is exceptional, especially in Montmartre,” says Bolenor. “And the fact that the wine sales go to charitable causes makes the charm even stronger.”
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Leplâtre and her team produce both red and rosé wine. Both are characterized by their rich color and highly aromatic qualities. The red is light–bodied, low in tannins and, according to Leplâtre, work well as an aperitif.
“Recently, we had the wine blind-tasted by a sommelier. He was unable to recognize that it was from Montmartre and found it very good,” she adds with a smile.
Eric Lejoindre concludes, “There’s an air of mystery around the wine. The mystery is part of what makes the Montmartre wine festival and the history of Montmartre special. So, we keep it a bit of a secret, but a widely shared secret.”
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