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Greenland’s population density is an unfathomable 0.0 people per-square-kilometer, and three-quarters of the 57,000 citizens live in Nuuk, the capital, which lies on the west coast.
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But they eat food they have hunted on the tundra or in the sea – whelk, reindeer and Arctic char – for dinner each night and dress in polar bear fur coats and seal skin gloves.
In their spare time, they go dog sledding along the snowy ravines and later feed their animals with seals harpooned from the icy rocks.
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But UN quotas and fear of extinction have put an end to that, prompting them to open up their home to foreigners with a taste for adventure.
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Just a few hours earlier, the weak rays of sunshine that flickered over the edge of the horizon at noon had already retreated, turning the snowy ravine into something more menacing.
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On another morning we sledded for hours through the tundra – the blank silence of the Arctic broken by the pants and barks of the Greenlandic dogs that were pulling us, their narrow eyes, deep howls and thick fur all more wolf than dog.
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Once the sea is a blanket of ice, you can go fishing – cut a neat hole in the surface and wait for your dinner alongside the seals.
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“When I was young, the sea froze over in September,” says Mette Barselajsen, who manages the guest house. Now in her forties, she notes it only freezes two months later.
“Our relationship with polar bears has changed a lot. When I was a girl, you would trek out into the tundra to find them.
“Now, we carry guns with us throughout the winter, as they so often come into the town. It is particularly frightening for those of us with children – I am always worried.”
I didn’t see a polar bear during my few days in Greenland, and nor did I see the region’s famous Northern Lights as it snowed every night I was there.
But while both would have been wonderful, missing out on them never felt like a huge loss, as the simple fact of waking up in this desolately beautiful all white world felt like enough.
It’s the light in particular that is so extraordinary. On clear days, the sun peeked over the horizon for the last time until February, and its weak rays cast a mauve-pink light over the mountains and sea.
On the helicopter ride home, I pressed my nose against the window to drink in the view of the pastel colored tundra that stretched out towards the North Pole without a single sign of human, animal or plant life.
Fly to Akureyri, the whale-watching hub of Iceland, directly from certain European capitals, or via Reykjavik. Then fly from Akureyri to Constable Point in Greenland. The flight takes 90 minutes and is scheduled twice a week with Air Iceland. After that, it’s a 15-minute helicopter ride to Ittoqqortoormiit on a flight operated by Air Greenland.
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