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In 1989, when Kim entered college, half a gallon of makgeolli cost about 40 cents. He and his friends would sit around a table, pouring makgeolli from a brass kettle into individual brass bowls, as is tradition.
Kim, now an adjunct professor at Global Cyber University in Seoul, has been teaching makgeolli brewing techniques for 10 years. Yet he remembers his early encounter with the drink being unpleasantly sour and bitter.
“When we were with women, we would drink beer. But among the boys, we drank makgeolli.” Makgeolli – with its less chic reputation – was unfit for impressing women.
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Kim Min-kyu (no relation to Kim Kyung-seop) is one brewer who had been leading the change. He launched his premium makgeolli brewery Boksoondoga in 2009.
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He convinced his family that brewing is an extension of architecture for him. Applying his training, he designed the branding, the marketing materials and the brewery building, while his mother brewed the makgeolli, creating the first bottle of Boksoondoga. Doga means “brewery,” and Boksoon is Kim’s mother’s name.
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One reason for the popularity is its simplicity. It is a mixture of steamed rice, yeast and water, left to ferment for a few weeks in a clay pot. Many families across Korea brewed their own drinks with their unique recipe.
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In 2016, the government allowed small scale breweries and distilleries to sell their alcoholic drinks by lowering the brewing tank size requirement from 5,000 to 1,000 liters. The next year, traditional alcoholic beverages were given the unique privilege of being sold online and delivered directly to consumers.
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In Kim Kyung-seop’s makgeolli class, half of the students are entrepreneurs, many of them women in their 30s or younger. Ten years ago, almost everyone in class was over 50 and looking to brew makgeolli as a hobby in their retirement.
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Kim says that opening a makgeolli brewery is much easier than any other type of alcohol. While equipment for setting up a beer microbrewery is around 200-300 million won ($155,000-233,000), equipment for a makgeolli brewery can be acquired for 10 million won ($7,800), Kim says. Furthermore, it only takes four 3-hour classes to brew something that’s better than the mass market makgeolli, he adds.
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Her clients are from countries like the US, Singapore and Denmark. Many of them are members of the Korean diaspora. “They watch Korean people enjoying it here and they are inspired to bring it back to their country,” she says.
“It was so different, so interesting. It is rare to discover something people in the world haven’t heard of.”
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Kim Min-kyu says his makgeolli will be sold in the US and Austria this year and other Western buyers have been approaching him. His makgeolli is already a hit in Japan, where it became popular during Hallyu, or the Korea-wave in the mid-2000s, a period when the success of K-dramas and K-pop opened the door to other cultural exports like kimchi and traditional drinks.
“To foreign consumers, this natural fermentation is considered healthy, organic and clean. And it’s a type of alcohol they have never seen before,” Min-kyu says.
Korean “soft power” has expanded beyond Asia in the past few years. He believes makgeolli can ride this wave.
Despite the rapid advance of makgeolli, the South Korean alcoholic beverage market is still dominated by soju and beer, which account for more than 80% of sales.
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In Korean culture, alcohol is almost always consumed with a set meal or snack. For makgeolli, this is jeon, a Korean savory pancake made by frying meat or vegetables in seasoned flour batter.
“A cool sip of makgeolli after a bite of savory scallion jeon acts as a palate cleanser readying you to fully enjoy another savory bite,” Kim Kyung-seop says.
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But premium makgeolli, with its wide spectrum of flavor, effervescence and body can pair well with any type of food, Min-kyu says.
“I drink it with jajangmyeon (a Chinese-Korean noodle dish) and it pairs very well with ice cream too. Because it’s a fermented drink, it tastes great with other fermented food. I think it’s delicious with kimchi and really flavorful cheese,” Min-kyu added.
Boksoondoga makgeolli was recently the main offering at a gastropub inconspicuously nestled in the trendy Hapjeong district of Seoul. Stylish bartenders deftly poured the drink into stemless wine glasses. The customers, mostly young professionals, savored the drinks while relaxing to hip-hop music. In a leather-bound menu, beef tartare was being offered alongside an array of other premium makgeolli brands.
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