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It’s the signature smell of Margaret’s Café e Nata – one of the most popular places to eat in Macao, a former Portuguese colony.

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Few people know Macanese egg tarts better than Wong, who began making the dish 30 years ago with her late ex-husband Andrew Stow.

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“One day my foster mother was visiting from America, and we bumped into Andrew, who gave me a hug and a kiss and I went all red. He was friends with everybody so I didn’t think I was anything special … but my mother said ‘Margaret, I think this is the right one for you.’”

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“When we started our bakery, someone asked Andrew to make a pasteis de nata, because they were very popular in Portugal. The first tray came out burnt and wrong, and Andrew wanted to throw them away. I said, hold on, they’re edible, so let people just try them. They tried one, and then two, and by the third I said, ‘I have to charge you because clearly, it’s good!’ ”

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Every single dish sold by the bakery is graced with Wong’s magic touch. In addition to egg tarts, other items on the menu include brownies, cakes and croissants. There’s also a salad and sandwich bar.

Despite long working hours, and the physically demanding nature of her work, she still spends almost every day bouncing back and forth between the kitchen and the shop.

“Some of my staff have been working with me for 15 years, they know everything, but still sometimes I have to make sure everything is good – I’m the boss!” she says.

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“I open the shop at 8:30 a.m., and I’m here until we close at 4:30 p.m., and I have an hour for lunch. My friend’s say I’m crazy… and I’m exhausted,” she says with a laugh. “I say I’m getting old, that’s why.”

Clearly young at heart, Wong abruptly cuts our interview short, informing us she needs to head to a rock ‘n’ roll dance class – but leaves us with a taste of wisdom.

“These days, teenagers, they always want to change their jobs. But for us, we never change. Like the tart, I never change my recipe, I don’t want to.”

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