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It’s a place of incredible atmosphere: history and landscape; views and silence; nature and destruction – all combining to create one of the Mediterranean’s great unsung archaeological wonders.

Here, slowly being swallowed by vegetation and worn down by time, are gigantic mausoleums, vast underground cisterns, temples, imposing city walls and a breathtaking theater perched, like Machu Picchu, on a hilltop that offers views stretching for miles all around.

Despite its emptiness, Termessos is easy to reach. It only takes around 45 minutes to drive from Antalya’s traffic-snarled downtown to the gates of Mount Güllük-Termessos National Park – a protected wildlife haven that surrounds the ruins.

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Eventually the road emerges into what seems like an uninteresting parking lot with a public restroom. This was, in fact, at one time a giant agora, or marketplace for the city, which in its heyday 2,000 years ago would’ve been bustling with traders and citizens.

Hidden by vegetation at one end of the agora are the stone-strewn remains of what was clearly once a grand street leading away along the hillside. Instead of houses or shops, this was lined with the tombs of Termessos’ rich and mighty.

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“The thieves working here were very good at their jobs,” says Önder Uğuz, an Antalya-based art teacher and licensed guide who offers tours of Termessos, which he’s been captivated by since first coming here as a student in 1996 (“It was love at first sight!”).

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Uğuz laughs off the suggestion of any mystery here. We’re too caught up in the achievements of our technological age to appreciate even the basic abilities of our distant ancestors, in his opinion.

“You and I, we’re nothing without our computers and social media accounts,” he says (shortly after taking a snap for his ownInstagramfeed). “Take those away and we are helpless. Not these people. They worked with stone for centuries. They had nothing else. Building things like this was what they knew how to do.”

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But they clearly knew what they were doing. Their choice of location showed a genius for strategic thinking. Not only was it on a major trade route, enabling it to grow wealthy on goods and payments from people heading to and from the Mediterranean, its altitude and commanding views made it easy to defend.

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Later, the Romans had more success in controlling the city. Not through force, says Uğuz, but through more insidious means, like offering autonomy under Roman “protection.” “The Romans were like the mafia,” he suggests.

Climbing higher up the hillside on a rocky path sprouting with fragrant wild sage, there’s more evidence of how sophisticated life in Termessos would’ve been. To the left, there’s the marble ruins of the city’s gymnasium, a kind of college campus for trainee soldiers, complete with bathhouse and refectory.

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It is, of course, mostly derelict. Termessos was believed to have been destroyed by an earthquake the exact date of which is not known, but possibly the 4th or 5th century. What remains is not the work of archeological reconstruction. It’s the genuine state the building has been left in for the past 1,600 years.

Here, the silence and emptiness of the place allow the imagination to wander – bringing those warriors back to life and allowing visualization of their mock battles in a place that has changed so little over time.

Further up, the upper city walls give commanding views of the forest below and offer a good vantage point over anyone trying to sneak up for an invasion. Beyond them is more evidence of civilization.

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Capable of holding up to 1,500 tons of water, these cavernous containers would’ve been vital to the survival of a city that had few natural sources of H2O – especially when Alexander the Great was mounting blockades. Today, they’re filled with broken columns and other rubble, likely dumped there when the city was abandoned. There’s speculation water shortages could’ve been behind a decision to finally relocate the city elsewhere.

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“This is the Champs-Élysées of Termessos,” says Uğuz. Like the Parisian upscale retail boulevard, this would’ve been where the wealthy spent their cash, he explains. The finest olive oils, cloths, leather goods and items imported from all around the Mediterranean would’ve been on sale here.

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In Termessos, the location is particularly significant, as it sits opposite a mountain that was once sacred to the city’s inhabitants. It’s easy to see why this was such a hallowed spot, with views that, on haze-free days, stretch as far as the port of Antalya.

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Uğuz (who can be contacted via email: onder.uguz@gmail.com) says he never tires of exploring Termessos. He also offers tours of other more popular archaeological sites in the area, but the tranquility and beauty of this hidden ancient wonder draw him back time and again. He particularly loves soaking in the vistas from the city’s upper walls.

“Usually, I’m sitting there with my wife, under a juniper tree in springtime, a beautiful blue sky with this great scenery,” he says, adding that year-round, the solitude offered by Termessos is also an attraction.

“For me it’s perfect. Just you and nature; little squirrels and archaeology. The only thing missing is a cold beer.”

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