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Yet on this island of around 400 people, located 372 miles off the east coast of mainland Australia, the beaches are empty. The only sounds on a hike through its rainforests and mountains come from the wildlife.
“It’s what is not here that provides that experience – that is why it’s so unique,” said Lisa Makiiti, a sixth-generation islander who runs the boutique accommodationBowker Beach House. There’s “value of having somewhere in the world that works in the reverse to every other tourist destination. It’s not bigger and better and more and more.”
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For over 40 years, Lord Howe has implemented a cap of 400 tourists at a time by fixing the number of beds available to visitors. This was to protect Lord Howe’s many unique endemic species, which helped the island earn recognition as aUNESCO World Heritage sitein 1982.
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Unsurprisingly, that means it’s difficult to get there; Makiiti says Bowker has bookings well into 2026. Airfares for a return trip to Sydney can run upwards of US$666, and in peak summer season, accommodation for two can range from US$200 to over US$3,000 per night.
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Visitors often wonder if there’s pressure for more development, but on Lord Howe, that’s an “alien concept,” Hiscox said. Even the local community is effectively capped because of rules on housing. Many residents are descended from original settlers who arrived in the 1800s.
“Those families that have been here for those five, six, seven generations have always recognized how special their lifestyle is here,” said Ian Hutton, a naturalist and photographer who has lived on the island since 1980. “There is that strong generational feeling of protecting their island.”
Life on Lord Howe is “like living inside a David Attenborough documentary,” said Hutton, who is also the curator at the Lord Howe Island Museum, on hiswebsite.
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On the coast, people can walk by nesting colonies of the Providence Petrel, a gray and white seabird with a slightly curved black beak that mainly breeds on Lord Howe. The birds willswoop downwhen called and are so friendly to humans that a person can pick them up.
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“You’re only on a boat for five or 10 minutes, and you’re already out to the main reefline. If you try and do that on the Great Barrier Reef, you might be on a boat for three or four hours and still not see nearly as much as you get to see here,” Hiscox said.
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Like Lord Howe’s residents, those who visit care deeply about preserving the island’s natural world, Hiscox said. Tour guides always explain that tradition of sustainability to their guests, but they don’t have to do much to convince them of its importance.
“We just simply elaborate,” Hiscox said. “We tell the story about what is it that’s special about Lord Howe Island. You have a captive audience who are already tuned into that philosophy, and want to know about it. You’re talking to the converted.”
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“The sniffer dogs check their bags and (visitors) find out that the dogs are not looking for marijuana, they’re just looking for rats and frogs,” Hutton said.
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Despite efforts by the government and citizens to protect the island, many of its defining features are under threat from climate change. A long run of record-breaking air and ocean temperatures fueled by climate change and the natural El Nino phenomenon has caused several massive coral bleaching events anddieback in the cloud forest. The increasing frequency of severe weather events means their future survival is “in the lap of the gods,” Hiscox said.
Lord Howe is today just a two-hour plane ride from the mainland, but historically the island and its close-knit community have been isolated.
For decades, the only way to get there was by seaplane. These “flying boats” first began regular flights to Lord Howe just after the end of World War II, and from the 1950s onward ferried passengers back and forth from Sydney six times a week, according to theAustralian National Maritime Museum. The journey took around three hours each way. For islanders, life during that time was slow and nonmaterialistic.
“There was no television, no internet, no telephones. We lived a completely unfettered and natural lifestyle. And pretty feral, I suspect, but safe feral,” said Makiiti.
“No shoes and everyone’s main priority was that you could swim, but we just roamed the island in complete freedom and were outside all the time fishing and swimming and just hanging out.”
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“It’s quite a nice other aspect of a connected community, where you’re just sharing everything around and when you have too much of something, everybody benefits from that as well,” Matassoni said.
Despite the challenges, residents feel lucky to live as they do – rejecting excess with a mentality that’s “all about reuse, reduce and look after,” Makiiti said. It’s a relaxed place where people spend their free time surfing, swimming and hiking, and most everyone gets around on bicycles.
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“Nobody likes red tape but everybody understands that it’s all in aid of making sure that we get to keep the lifestyle we have, that we get to keep the natural environment the way it is, that we are all very lucky to be here,” Matassoni said.
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Islanders “always use the analogy less is more,” Riddle said. “The longer we can keep it more unique like this, the more unique we are in the world.”
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