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Ozu Castle in Ehime prefecture’s Ozu town is the first and only castle keep in Japan to allow travelers to stay overnight. With a history dating from 1617, it’s also one of only a handful of timber castles left in Japan.

But though transformingOzu Castle into a hotelis a remarkable feat in itself, it’s actually part of a bigger mission – to revive a dwindling rural town.

Dubbed the “little Kyoto” of Iyo (the ancient name of Ehime prefecture),Ozuis known for its scenic Hiji River, historical architecture and the elegant four-story Ozu Castle.

Once a political center in the Edo era (1603-1868), it flourished during the Meiji (1868-1912) and Taisho (1912-1926) periods thanks to wax and silk production and trade.

But the fortunes of Ozu, like many other rural towns in Japan, have drastically dropped in recent decades.

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“With this, comes the closure of businesses and abandoning of houses, which increases the chances of young people leaving to find better prospects,” says Diego Cosa Fernandez, director of the Architecture and Culture Research Department at Kita Management, an offshoot of the city’s Tourism and City Planning bureau.

Under these trying circumstances, many landlords have decided to demolish their old houses due to a perceived lack of economic value.

“In most cases, former houses became vacant lots or are used as parking lots,” Fernandez tells 【 - Free Membership Group 】 Travel. “There was a sense among locals that this trend shouldn’t go on. Something had to be done.”

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Born and raised in Spain, Fernandez studied in Kyoto for a year after completing a degree in architecture in the early 2000s. He returned to Japan while working on his PhD on “water, architecture and history” in 2012. It was then that he stumbled upon Ozu.

“The area became the spine of my research,” says Fernandez, “Little by little my local network expanded.

“All over Japan, rural settlements – and the Japanese government – are trying to come up with the ‘magic’ formula, or the right policies, to stop the bleeding. We are part of this trial-and-error scheme.”

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Japan’s Laws for the Protection of Cultural Properties include strict restrictions on alterations to tangible heritage buildings, including many of the country’s castle keeps.

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“Timber construction was several times more expensive and post-war construction law did not allow timber structures taller than 13 meters,” says Fernandez. “Ozu Keep is 19-meter high.”

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Ozu Castle opened its doors to hotel guests in July, giving guests a chance to enjoy the castle building privately after the gate is closed to public visitors at 5 p.m.

For the first year, only 30 stays will be permitted, with up to six guests allowed during each stay.

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Upon arrival, guests – who can choose to dress up in traditional kimonos and medieval warrior outfits – will be welcomed by the sound of shell trumpets, waving flags and a gunpowder squadron.

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Dinner is served at one of the four turrets in the castle compound, followed by a moon-viewing session with sake drinking and poetry recitation.

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But the Castle Hotel isn’t the only new accommodation option in town. The entire Nipponia Hotel Ozu Castle Town project includes multiple locations around Ozu.

Inspired by the names of three ancient Ozu lords, the houses – called SADA, OKI and TSUNE – each has an interesting back story.

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“It belonged to Murakami, a very rich industrialist who made his fortunes producing Japanese wax. Oki was the main residence so they spent many efforts displaying their status. It’s also one of the oldest residences still standing in Ozu.”

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“Our goal is to identify fragile houses, convince the owner to lease them to us, engage them in the renovation processes, find a suitable use (and a suitable tenant) and keep them for 15 years,” says Fernandez.

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“In the end, we aim to generate a more livable city center where young couples will be deciding to move in because they have jobs, bars and cafes where they can eat, nurseries that take care of their kids and attractive houses to sleep in – and residents are deciding to stay because of the same reasons,” says Fernandez.

“There is a castle, zen temples, nice shrines, teahouses, merchant houses, samurai residences, pottery making, silk making, Japanese washi making and festivals,” he says.

“Albeit beautiful, none of them may deserve superstardom but the ensemble is charming and convenient – and it’s packed within a short distance. It feels like a small or handy encyclopedia of Japanese art and history.”

Getting there:Ozu is located about 60 kilometers from Matsuyama, Ehime Prefecture’s capital city, and its airport.

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On weekends, a sightseeing train calledIyonada Monogatariruns between the two cities, traveling along the coastline of the Seto Inland Sea.

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