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But the tradition of making a statement through clothing goes back to 1912, when Helen Taft donated her gown from the inaugural ball to the Smithsonian National Museum of American History. Since then the museum has collected each inaugural ensemble for its First Ladies collection, giving their sartorial choices additional longevity and gravity as they are kept on view for the public.

Below are some of the first ladies whose inauguration outfits held deep symbolism — and sometimes, invited controversy.

Elevating American fashion is now expected when it comes to dressing the first family — with Ralph Lauren becoming the first designer to receive the Presidential Medal of Freedom earlier this month, following a long history of dressing presidents and first ladies. But this statement of national pride can be traced as far back as 1889, when, according to the Smithsonian, first lady Caroline Harrison made a tacit declaration when she opted for an inaugural ball look that was fully made in America in order to support President Benjamin Harrison’s “America first” economic platform, according to the Smithsonian.

It was a multistate effort, with a gown from Ghormley, Robes et Manteaux in New York City, its brocaded silk fabric sourced from the Logan Silk Company in the Finger Lakes further north, and its pattern of burr oaks — a tribute to the former president William Henry Harrison, Benjamin’s grandfather — designed by Indiana artist Mary Williamson.

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For her husband’s second term, Eisenhower included a bit of self-promotion beyond the press release: She accessorized her glitzy pearl-, crystal- and topaz-embroidered gown (also by Rosenstein) with a bag featuring the letter “M” on one side and “1957” on the other.

Jackie Kennedy was not the first in her role to see fashion as a tool for soft power, but she is remembered for wielding it so efficiently. Though traditionally the evening’s inaugural ball was the place for making a grand entrance, Kennedy’s most notable choice of the day was her pillbox hat: a modern, elegant silhouette in an arresting powder blue by then-emerging milliner Halston. The first lady’s sartorial choices throughout the day, including the off-white silk chiffon sleeveless gown with a matching cape worn to the evening ball itself, solidified her as a new force in the fashion world and supported John F. Kennedy’s vision of a new, transformative era for the presidency.

But some of the hallmarks of her looks that day were not as intended — her hat and coat from the day were not actually blue, but a more neutral tone, and may have been a color-correction issue from Life magazine, 【 - Free Day Trading Recommendations 】reportedin 2020. The shape of her hat had a happy accident as well, with a small dent that appeared as Kennedy was adjusting it widely replicated in homages to her look.

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In pictures from the 1965 event, Johnson stands out in striking red among a sea of mostly black suits. But it’s her vivid yellow satin gown and sable-trimmed coat from that evening that has become one of the most memorable inauguration day looks.

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Celebrities and public figures today who resurface looks at different events are often lauded for their sustainably-minded choices — includingMeghan Markle, Duchess of Sussex; Jane Fonda and Cate Blanchett. But Rosalynn Carter, an early adopter of the trend, did not receive the same reception when she recycled her Mary Matise-designed gold-trimmed gown to the inaugural ball in 1977 following Jimmy Carter’s oath of office. She’d worn the gown to his inaugural ball six years earlier when he was elected governor of Georgia, and her resourceful style choice was meant to be a meaningful nod to his accomplishments. But the press (and beyond) criticized the decision.

“She wanted to continue the tradition and wear it when (Carter) was inaugurated president,” Edith Mayo, then-curator of the First Ladies exhibit,told PBSin 2001. “But the fashion community distinctly did not get that and they did not like it.”

Following Rosalynn Carter’s tenure, Nancy Reagan set her intentions in 1981 with an expensive white one-shoulder beaded and lace sheath gown at the inaugural ball. It was “a declaration that fashion mattered,” the New York Timeswrotein the obituary of its designer, her longtime collaborator James Galanos. Paired with white opera gloves and her hair in a polished French pleat, the incoming first lady channeled poise and luxury — though she, too, could not escape criticism from the press, this time for having extravagant tastes.

In her outerwear earlier in the day, Reagan introduced the hue she would be most closely associated with during her husband’s two terms: Reagan red, which she wore for his second inauguration as well four years later.

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Obama’s J. Crew outing was not an isolated incident, but the start of a long love affair with their off-the-rack finds. In 2017, Time acknowledged herthriftinessas a J. Crew aficionada, saying: “Women across the nation could relate to the First Lady’s affinity for a cute sweater and a good deal.”

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