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You know the one. It’s a wooly pullover, usually in different shades of red, white and green, often of questionable fabric, and with at least one Christmas-inspired motif on it — a snowman, tinsel, a reindeer or candy canes. Extra points if it features 3D pom-pom or jingle bells.

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Christmas-themed pullovers started making an appearance in the 1950s, a nod perhaps to the holiday’s growing commercialization. Initially referred to as “Jingle Bell Sweaters,” they weren’t as garish as today’s iterations, and found little popularity in the market, although some TV personalities — notably crooners Val Doonican and Andy Williams — really embraced the ugly side of the festive topper.

It wasn’t until the 1980s that the item hit the mainstream. The shift came thanks to pop culture and comedies, with goofball dad characters like Chevy Chase’s Clark Griswold in “National Lampoon’s Christmas Vacation” turning the holiday sweater into an uncomely but endearing expression of cheer. Snowflake-emblazoned sweaters weren’t considered cool, but they radiated yule, and were sported at office parties and on Christmas Day.

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Over the following decade, the festive knit evolved into “a new holiday tradition,” as Miller described it. “It became our generation’s mistletoe,” he added. “Which is pretty remarkable, when you think about it.”

Fast-fashion giants like Topshop and high-end retailers like Nordstrom began filling their shelves and sites with gaudy designs each holiday season. Vintage stores and the Salvation Army capitalized on the trend by upping their stocks of fuzzy snowmen and dancing Santa pullovers. Even the fashion pack came around. In 2007, Stella McCartney released a polar bear-themed alpine sweater. Givenchy followed in 2010, and Dolce & Gabbana the following year.

2012 was a turning point for the ugly sweater craze. UK charity Save the Children launched Christmas Jumper Day, a fundraising event encouraging people to don their most cringeworthy sweaters. British newspaper The Telegraphdescribedthe item as “this season’s must-have,” while the New York Times reported on ugly Christmas sweater-themed runs, pub crawls and specialized e-tailers booming across the States. Concurrently, the knits began showing more tinsel, bells and wacky details, reaching peak kitsch.

Celebrities, from Taylor Swift to Kanye West embraced the trend, too. Late night talk show host Jimmy Fallon even started running a regular segment called “12 Days of Christmas Sweaters,” whichstill airs today.

If anything, the rise of social media has only heightened the “It” status of the ugly sweater. Today, we compete to show off our Christmas-sweater love on Instagram, while anyone from mass retailer Target to fast food chain Red Lobster (whose UCS features a pocket to keep food warm), and more fashion houses offer their own versions of the garment.

“When I attended my first Ugly Sweater Party in the early 2000s, I would have never anticipated the garment would take off like this,” Miller said. “Although it’s easy to see why: ugly knits can be worn by anyone — from my daughter at her school’s ugly sweater contest to office workers at their end of year party. They’re democratic. And they’re a lot of fun. Christmas can be quite stressful — wearing something ridiculous can help take the pressure off.”

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