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Ella was transported. She’d grown up reading shōjo manga, or “girls’ comics,” and drawing art based on the Japanese countercultural styles she saw within them — the clothes, she assumed, were “very cute but unattainable” in America. She was fascinated by makeup but didn’t see herself in the “mature” looks championed by American media.
(【 - Free Stock Movement Tracking 】 is referring to Ella by her first name only, as Lolitas can be harassed online by those who misunderstand or fetishize their practise.)
Her youthful obsession realized in front of her, Ella was inspired to buy her first piece of Lolita fashion in 2015, from the popular Lolita e-tailer Angel Pretty. She started out as a “lone Lolita” — she wore the clothes, but she didn’t know any other Lolitas. Gradually, though, her friends started to join her, and she’s since found a community of like-minded Lolitas who love dressing up and being together, organizing outdoor tea parties as well as trips to wineries, pumpkin patches and on shopping sprees to look for more gowns to add to their collection. Now, she’s one of the group’s veterans.
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Lolita fashion plates embrace youthful femininity through petticoats, ruffles and lace and voluminous jumperskirts (sleeveless dresses typically worn over a flouncy blouse). The style’s refusal to subscribe to norms of what “mature femininity” looks like for adults — people in their late teens, 20s, 30s and beyond wear Lolita clothing — makes Lolita fashion a subversive form of self-expression, Monden said.
It draws inspiration from sources spanning centuries and continents. Among them is Marie Antoinette and her penchant for extravagant, ultra-feminine fashions, along with mid-century “French lolitas” like Brigitte Bardot and the British-born Jane Birkin, a model and actress embraced by French audiences for her New Wave films, Monden said. Even 1950s-style American prom dresses, with their extravagant skirts and bodices, influence contemporary Lolita fashion, he said.
“Lolita style challenges the prevalent notion that women dress primarily to attract men,” Monden said. “It serves as a clear statement that they dress for their own satisfaction and to express their unique aesthetic.”
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Lolita style originated in Japan’s vibrant streetwear scene, Monden said. Its seeds were planted in the ‘70s and ‘80s, with the founding of Japanese ateliers like Milk, Pink House and even Comme des Garçon, which shared a “romantic, girlish aesthetic” that proved influential, he said.
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Beyond Japan, the popularity of the country’s cultural exports, particularly anime and cosplay, has attracted non-Japanese people to the style of dress, Monden said. But Lolita fashion followers don’t consider the style a form of cosplay, Liu Carriger wrote in her paper — cosplay involves dressing up as another character, while Lolitas are wearing clothes that reflect their true selves.
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Everything about a Lolita look is carefully thought out, Ella explained: From the perfect socks for a pair of pink Mary-Jane heels, to the straw hat or pink-ribboned bonnet that will best accentuate their dress for the day, each garment, accessory and cosmetic choice matters.
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Ella says her personal Lolita style is a blend of classic and sweet, with a healthy dose of prints and patterns. When she feels like stepping out in black, she’ll pull one of the few gothic Lolita dresses in her closet.
But coordinating gloves and shoes with blouses and skirts involves more planning than a typical ensemble, so Ella said she doesn’t dress up every day — describing her aesthetic otherwise as Bay Area athleisure.
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