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Gold Stocks in India AI Enhanced Trading Forecasts ✌️【Employment Opportunities】✌️ Real-time global stock, futures, and forex data to help you master market dynamics. Where other regions of Italy have traditional dishes that are what we’d recognize as “Italian” food, traditional Ligurian dishes are slightly different.
Of course, there’s pasta with pesto. But there are also dishes likefarinata, a kind of chickpea pancake that’s salted and served in slices, andcappon magro, a “salad” of seafood and cooked vegetables, slathered in basil-heavy green sauce, usually served in an elaborate pile that makes it look like a dish set for a banquet.
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You might think that the lack is down to Liguria’s landscape of steeply terraced hills, cliffs and mountains. But Sergio Rossi, who blogs about Ligurian food as the self-styled “Cucinosofo” (kitchen philosopher) says that’s not the case: “Tomatoes grow very well here.”
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In fact, says Rossi, the arrival of the potato was “much more important” than that of the tomato. Potatoes gave the people of theentroterra– the hilly, mountainous inland areas populated bycontadini(peasants) – a reliable food that kept them alive.
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“That’s when it entered into dishes – sometimes pasta but also stews, likeminestrone Genoveseand stockfish stew. The Ligurians produced a tomato sauce.”
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“The tomato arrived from Mexico as a novelty for botanic gardens in around 1580,” says Diego Zancani, author ofHow We Fell in Love with Italian Food. “But it took a very long time to be recognized as edible.”
By the time it was, Liguria’s world-famous dishes like pasta with pesto, focaccia and farinata were already entrenched.
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“Liguria has always been a very secretive part of Italy – Genoa had contact with the rest of the world because of their ships, but much of the rest is quite isolated,” he says.
“It’s a largely mountainous region, so traditions are kept much longer than other places. In any rural area, there’s a lot of conservatism – things were kept for centuries without much change.”
Ligurian food is a big deal for Enrica Monzani, who gave up a career as a Genoese attorney to focus purely on the food of her region. Today, she leads cooking classes, and writes about coastal Ligurian dishes like fried sage leaves and stuffed anchovies on her blog,A Small Kitchen in Genoa.
For Monzani, the lack of tomatoes in Ligurian food isn’t really a lack – rather, it’s a sign of Liguria’s vegetable-heavy cuisine that means there’s no room for a star of the show.
Yes, veg-heavy. Because although we think of Liguria as a coastal destination, in fact, seafood only entered the canon of Ligurian cooking when tourism took off in the 1900s, she says. Instead, Ligurians have always terraced the cliffsides and mountains to grow vegetables, and sourced ingredients like mushrooms in the forested hills and mountains inland – then added things like anchovies during the summer season.Friggitorie– literally “frying shops” – have also been popular in Genoa since the Middle Ages, serving battered tiny fish as well as fried ravioli,panisette(like oversized chickpea fries) andfrisceu(deep-fried dough balls).
“Our traditional cuisine is based on vegetables or products from the woods – chestnuts, potatoes, mushrooms and herbs – it’s linked to farmers and peasants more than to fishermen,” she says. She even has a section of her website dedicated to “wild herbs and flowers” recipes.
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“It’s traditional for us to season pasta with raw sauces: pesto, walnut sauce, pine nut sauce – there’s a great sauce of marjoram and pine nut,” she says.
“Even our meat sauce is a huge piece of meat slow-cooked for hours till it releases its juices. It has a tiny quantity of tomato. Pasta with tomato sauce is just not that common, and we mainly use it to give acidity to stews, like stockfish stew orpollo alla cacciatora”– braised “cacciatore” chicken, for which Monzani uses just three tomatoes, where other Italian recipes have the meat swimming in a tomatoey sauce. “Generally in Ligurian cooking we add a bit of tomato paste [instead of masses of tomatoes],” she says.
Liguria’s tradition of raw, nut-based pasta sauces dates back to the Muslim and Arabic influence of the medieval period, says Monzani, sparked by Genoa’s status as one of the most important ports in the Mediterranean. Saracen pirates also made incursions along the coast. The result? “In the early Middle Ages we introduced nuts into our cuisine.”
Basil is thought to have come from the east, too, says Rossi. “It’s not easy to say how it arrived but for centuries Genoa was the most important port in the Mediterranean – it’s obvious that if an ingredient arrived, it’d arrive here.
Pesto is derived fromagliata, a family of garlic-heavy medieval sauces, he says. While other parts of Italy did have basil, it was the Ligurians who combined it with nuts, garlic and parmesan. The fact that the Ligurians already had pasta – they’ve produced it for 800 years and traded it for a little longer – was “fundamental,” he says. Pesto was already cited as the condiment for pasta ongiorni di magro– meat-free days imposed by the Catholic church – in 1618.
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Zancani says that much Ligurian cuisine “is based on peasant food, especially on the knowledge of wild herbs.”
“They have various concoctions which rely on specific wild herbs that can only be found in the hills and mountains of Liguria,” he says.
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