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Levasseur, known as La Buse (“The Buzzard”) spent years pillaging his way across this corner of the Indian Ocean before settling on the Seychelles. When he was eventually recognized, arrested and taken to the island of Reunion in 1730, he refused to divulge the location of buried treasure believed to be worth $130 million.

“When they cast him into prison, they asked La Buse for the secret of the treasure. He refused. They tortured him, he still refused. They gave him a pen and parchment to write the secret of the treasure. He refused. And instead, when they were not around, he wrote [a] cryptogram and hid it on his person.”

Cruise-Wilkins explains that, having been sentenced to death, La Buse was forced to wear a long shirt, under which he hid the parchment on which he’d written the cryptogram.

“As he was about to be hanged, La Buse then just took this paper and threw it out to the crowd, and said ‘my treasure for he who can understand!’… I can actually see the ex-pirates, his former mates, reaching up and fighting to get the papers.”

In 1949, those papers found their way into the hands of Reginald Cruise-Wilkins and a family obsession was born. Reginald’s life came to be dominated by the search for La Buse’s treasure. And while John says he’s not obsessed, it seems his father clearly was.

“We went through terrible hardships because of the treasure hunt,” says John. “My father had two accounts, a work account and a personal account. And when the work account was going really low, he was always tempted to take from the personal accounts, and so my mother slapped him on the wrist, because you’ve got a family to feed.”

“Before he died, I wanted to get out of the Seychelles. I didn’t want to do this, but afterward when he was gone, looking through everything, I realized someone had to take it up. I had to take it up.”

Years of painstaking research led Reginald and then John to this location. Father and son believe cryptic messages about the rocks written by La Buse, as well as footprint markings at the site, show this is the place where the Seychelles’ most famous treasure is buried.

For his part, Cruise-Wilkins refuses to believe that anyone else has found and dug up the treasure in the 290 years since La Buse’s execution.

“It’s untouched. It’s still there. And it’s a fantastic haul. And when this whole thing comes up, it will be like… to the treasure hunting world, it will be like the finding of Tutankhamun in Egypt. It is the holy grail of treasure hunters.”

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Be they 18th century pirates or modern lovers in search of the dream wedding, the Seychelles’ isolated location in the middle of the Indian Ocean makes it the perfect place for anyone looking to escape.

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“This place is very, very special to me. It’s always been,” says resident Nick Savvy. “I’ve grown up here and I feel very, very lucky to be involved in this place and to be, if you want to call it, the custodian of it. It’s not really that I own it, I’m looking after it, in a sense, for the next generation.

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Esmeralda is the oldest of 23 giant aldabra tortoises on Bird Island. Named by a 19th century biologist, Esmeralda is the oldest free-roaming tortoise in the world, weighs in at a colossal 308 kilograms and is another undoubted item of Seychelles treasure.

“He’s obviously been used to tourists over all these years,” says Savvy. “He was here when we opened the hotel and he’s been used to us feeding him fruits in the morning and toast and so he’s been around people a lot. He is very, very calm.”

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For all that, he’s a calm and reassuring creature. He enjoys nothing more than a tickle under his chin and his impressive shell and easy manner make coming to Bird Island even more relaxing.

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Coco de mer Trees grow the largest nuts in the world, weighing in between 15 and 30 kilograms. And for Victorin Laboudallon, a veteran of Seychelles conservation, they are the ultimate representation of the islands.

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“Slow, slow, slow,” says Laboudallon. “Seychelles, we are slow. That’s why you see everywhere where you go the Seychellois people live slow, slow, slowly.”

However, there is a sense of urgency from Laboudallon and other environmentalists when it comes to the Coco de mer Tree. The government has had to take steps to protect the tree from poachers.

“People keep on stealing but not for the shells, not for the kernel, but the jelly. The first year, from 7-9 months, they’re full with jelly inside,” says Laboudallon. “The jelly they say is used for aphrodisiac.”

Cups of the jelly are said to sell for as much as $50. Stopping poachers taking the nuts, and therefore protecting their future growth, is challenging. Unfortunately, it’s a problem that shows no sign of being dealt with in the near future.

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“We started with a few weddings a month,” she says. “Then as the internet started coming to Seychelles, people discovered Seychelles as a new destination.”

“When we started, we started with two palm leaves as a carpet, a little table to sign the books and two chairs,” she says. “But now we have a huge challenge with decor. We are doing pavilions, we are doing thousands of flowers. We are doing crystals, sometimes chandeliers.

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“At the end of the day, the best day of someone’s life is resting on your shoulders, again and again and again,” says Prosic.

But for all that, she loves her job and how it showcases the Seychelles. “It’s someone’s dream. We are fulfilling dreams, trying our best.”

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