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In the Lone Star State, who gets the credit for these morning tortilla sensations can be a matter of habañero-hot debate.
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But to get a true picture of this simple food with a complex history, we must go beyond Texas and first look atanother place: Mexico.
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“The breakfast taco may be the simplest of street food, but it’s been been hitting the spot for the workers of Monterrey for nearly a century,” narrates Longoria.
【 - Free Stock Market Strategy Classes 】 Travel caught up with Esquivel – born and raised in the border state of Sonora and resident of Monterrey for more than 10 years – to find out more.
“When I arrived in Monterrey, I discovered all the different types of tacos that everyone eats in the morning. You can have a taco of eggs. You can have a taco of meat. You can have a taco of potatoes.”
Esquivel said you can find breakfast tacos in other states in northern Mexico, but Monterrey and the state of Nuevo León are the culinary epicenter with more places to get them and a larger selection of fillings.
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Esquivel said the breakfast taco goes back to the early 1900s and perhaps even earlier in Monterrey.
Compañia Fundidora, a former iron and steel foundry that dates to 1900 but is now a recreational and educational park, helped the breakfast taco get its start in Monterrey. Employees came “to work really early, and so they had to have a really fast breakfast in the morning, and one fast breakfast in the morning is a breakfast taco.”
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“No Texas city can claim the breakfast taco,” says José Ralat, the taco editor of Texas Monthly magazine. He places the ultimate credit south of the Rio Grande.
“It comes from Mexico – where exactly, it’s not really known. Geographically, the most likely source is northern Mexico. There is no literature that I have seen that can point to any particular city in northern Mexico.”
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Eddie Vega – who grew up in McAllen, across from the Mexican city of Reynosa in Tamaulipas state – is known as“Taco Poet of Texas.”He points out that historically, what’s now south Texas was once part of Mexico.
Before 1836, “the border was further north. All this region was eating a combination of indigenous and Spanish food together.”
Vega said that growing up, breakfast tacos weren’t some trendy food to him attracting attention from the likes ofThe New York Timesand other coastal media.
“When you get to south Texas, and I’m from the Valley, we had breakfast tacos, but they were in my house. My mom would make them. It’s not something we’d go to a restaurant to get because economically that region is very poor and nobody’s eating out. Or not eating out in the morning especially.”
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“To be clear, they’re both Tex Mex towns, and breakfast tacos are Tex Mex. But they’re also border food. When the Eater article came out”– championing Austin as “home” of the breakfast taco – “San Antonians lost their minds.”
I don’t know that one city – San Antonio, Corpus Christi, McAllen, Brownsville or Laredo – can claim it.
Vega said the culinary history is too distant for any one place to stamp itself as originator or king purveyor. “I don’t know that one city – San Antonio, Corpus Christi, McAllen, Brownsville or Laredo – can claim it. You have differences with them because of ingredients.”
Jessica Elizarraras, a Rio Grande Valley native and the executive producer forMySA.com, said many people have put the origins dispute behind them.
“I think at this point we’ve mostly moved on from the great taco war of 2016,” Elizarraras said in an email interview with 【 - Free Stock Market Strategy Classes 】 Travel. “Is there occasional ribbing? Absolutely! Are there great tacos across the state? 1000 percent. The Mexican diaspora is far-reaching and so are their tacos.”
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“A flour tortilla in San Antonio tends to lean a bit puffier than its Rio Grande Valley/Coast counterparts.Con Huevos Tacosin San Antonio is the best of both worlds: a thin but sturdy tortilla, filled with fun, flavorful combinations.”
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“I hesitate to eat them at a place that calls them Austin-style. … I want the food to be high quality. I don’t want it to be spin.”
“Bean and cheese is a great example of a breakfast taco that doesn’t have eggs. … Chicharron en salsa (verde or rojo) is another example of a tasty taco that doesn’t require eggs. Barbacoa – made using a whole cow-head, and more generally, beef cheeks – is a classic breakfast taco in San Antonio, often paired with Big Red [soda] for a Sunday morning treat.”
“Part of the issue is erasure. Just like with anything else in our Mexican-American culture, to feel left out of a conversation when you know you’ve part of that conversation for a long time.” Vega said.
“I think the breakfast tacos here in Monterrey … and the northeast of the country is something that unites everyone.”
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“I think history, especially food history, is important to know because it provides another mirror for our culture.
“It’s interesting to me that tortillas are the foundation of Mexican culture, and to break bread with someone is a sacred act. So let’s take it literally, and say that you share tacos with someone else. That’s so nice. And it’s just so joyful.”
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